Travelogue

Exploring the Beautiful ‘Pink City’ Yerevan of Armenia

Exploring the Beautiful ‘Pink City’ Yerevan of Armenia

Yerevan is one of the most beautiful “pink city’ that we’ve ever been to, its buildings were all made of naturally coloured volcanic rocks of varying shades of pink, giving its city a vibrant and lively atmosphere! Yerevan is also known for her night life where pubs, cafes and restaurants are open till the wee hours of the morning. As one of the locals told us, Armenians like to party, have fun and be merry! Here are our suggestions of things to do in Yerevan!

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Yerevan, the “pink city”.

1. Visit the Mother Armenia monument

This statue is actually a female personification of Armenia, from here, it’ll be like she’s watching over the whole of Yerevan city, making her the guardian of Armenia. This Mother Armenia monument also symbolises peace through strength.

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Can you spot the eternal flame?

2. Enjoy a panorama view of Yerevan from the top of the Cascade

The cascade is a 5 storey complex which has a large stairway that brings you right to the top where you can enjoy a breathtaking panorama view of Yerevan. Unfortunately that day when we were there, the weather wasn’t too good and we couldn’t get a clear view of the magnificent Mt. Ararat.

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Inside this complex, there’s also an art exhibit which houses some very interesting contemporary art pieces. Our personal favourites are the 2 in the photos below.

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Can you guess the material used to make this majestic lion?

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Swarovski Cyrstal Palace at the top floor. So pretty!

3. Visit the local market

We have always enjoyed visiting the local markets in different countries as we feel that this is the best place to get an insight into the locals’ way of living, also it’s a great place to meet the friendly locals! Over here at Yerevan, the locals were so friendly and constantly offered us different food to try! We were so full after exiting the market from tasting all the different unique kind of dried fruits! You see those long strips of dried fruit hanging from the circular metal pole? Those were actually walnuts mixed with dried grape juice! Very delicious! 🙂

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Another very interesting sight to behold, is the outright display of fresh cow’s trotter at the entrance of the market! Our guide shared with us that Khash, is a very popular dish among the Armenians during winter, especially for the men. Khash is a traditional dish of boiled cow’s trotter and it’s a supposedly very nutritious winter food that will keep you very warm in winter. It’s also often accompanied with vodka and our guide said that once you have Khash, the rest of the day will be gone as you will be too sleepy and lethargic after this very heavy dish!

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4. Learn more about Armenia’s history in the Matenadaran

The Matenadarn is a national museum built in 1945 houses more than 20,000 manuscripts depicting the history of Christianity in Armenia, ancient medicinal herbs and plants, literature and so much more. Since Armenia is such an old country, these manuscripts were extremely important in understanding the history of Armenia and its well preserved culture. We went on a guided tour where we had very interesting information about the different manuscripts and its origins.

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5. Understand more about Brandy and partake in a Brandy tasting session

Though we weren’t big fans of brandy, in fact, we don’t think we’ve ever tried it before, this was still a very interesting experience for us as we learnt so much about Brandy. Brandy is actually made from wine that has been kept in an oak barrel for a minimum of 3 years to form spirit, which was then blended together with different ages of spirit to form Brandy. So it’s wine, then spirit and then Brandy. There are 3 ways to tell the quality of Brandy, 1. viscosity – the thicker the better, 2. colour – the darker the better, 3. taste – the stronger the taste, the better. Daniel says that the 10 years old brandy had a chocolate aftertaste, which was affirmed by the Brandy master that was guiding the session. For me, I can’t taste that “chocolateness” though. Overall, we had a very fun and insightful time at the Yerevan Brandy Company! If you’re a foodie, wine or brandy person, you might be interested in the food & wine tour offered by BeMyGuest.

Fun fact: The difference between Brandy and wine is that once Brandy has been bottled, its value remains as the number of years that it has previously been stored in the oak barrel. While wine on the other hand can be bottled and its value will continue to increase with age.

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No prize for guessing which we preferred!

6. Get your hand made souvenirs at the Vernissage art market

This was one of our favourite places in Yerevan, there were so many different handicrafts and it was so fun to walk through this market. Some were selling beautiful painting of the different famous landmarks of Armenia (especially of the Khor Virap monastery that was set against the majestic Mt. Ararat backdrop), bags made from carpets, wooden sculptures (Armenia is well know for being very talented at wood carving) and many more!

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7. Admire the talented works of famous oscar winning film director, Parajanov

“The colour of Pomegranates” was one of his best works, but we have yet to watch it. We didn’t take any photos inside the museum though as we had to pay an additional fee for it. It was very enjoyable admiring his quirky art works as some were really out of this world. He was arrested and put in jail because his movies were too ‘out of the box’ and the government at that time was most afraid of such minds which could easily influence the rest of the population. But nothing could stop this talented artist, even when he was not allowed to make film when he was in jail, he continued to make collages which were like a compressed film to him and each collage told a different story. You will be able to see his collages in the museum.

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Photo credits: https://blansh.wordpress.com/2010/05/29/parajanov/

 8. Pay your respects at the Genocide Memorial

Unfortunately the Genocide museum was closed for a year for thorough restoration and will only be opened 2 days before its 100th anniversary which will be on the 24th April 2015. The genocide happened during and after first world war where more than 1.5million Armenians were brutally killed without any mercy by her enemy. The genocide happened in 3 phases, the first was when all the men were being called out to join the army and then killed (so that the rest of the population will not have any males to protect them), then next was the killing of all women, elderly and children, and the last was the intellectuals.

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Photo credits: https://www.flickr.com/photos/nersess/2137880081/ (genocide)

9. Be a child once again at the Grand Candy Store

As soon as we entered the Grand Candy Store, we were greeted with a burst of bright colours, delightful squeals from the excited children and also the buzz from a  very cute train that was going round and round the store on a lit up railway track! It was almost like ‘heaven” for children! Of course, we were equally elated too! We proceeded to the second floor where we had a sugar coated donut and a cuppa hot choc just like the rest of the locals. It was one of the best that we’ve ever tasted! It’s a must try if you’re ever visiting Yerevan! And also, don’t forget to pick up some yummy chocs or candies on the first floor! We bought some dark chocolates and coffee chocolates, they were reallllly good!

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Photo credits: http://www.grandcandy.am/

10. Visit the largest Armenian church in the world, the St Grigor Lusavorich

The St Grigor Lusavorich cathedral is also the symbol of the 1700th anniversary of the proclamation of Christianity as a state religion in Armenia as well as a tribute to St Gregory, the illuminator, who was responsible for introducing Christianity to Armenia. This church is one of the newest church in Armenia and was built only around 6-7 years ago if we don’t remember wrongly. This church is particularly beautiful at night after being illuminated by the floodlights.

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Essential Information

Most of the activities above were part of our tour with BeMyGuest where we had 1-2 days to explore Yerevan. If you wish to know how we spent the rest of our time in Armenia, check out our post on things to do in Armenia.

Hope you enjoyed our post about our suggestions on things to do in Armenia! Do drop us a comment if we’ve left out any!

Top 9 Things To Do In Armenia

Top 9 Things To Do In Armenia

Armenia is usually not the first country that will come into your mind when you’re deciding on your next travel destination but we are going to change that. Here are 8 very interesting things to do in Armenia and hopefully you’ll be convinced to explore Armenia next! 🙂

1. Be awed by the beautiful ancient churches & ruins

Armenia was said to be the first country to have adopted Christianity as its state religion back in the 301AD (more than 1,700 years ago!). A lot of these churches built back then have been restored and today, you’ll be able to visit the sites of these awe-inspiring millennium old monasteries. You can imagine the immense amount of rich history of these churches that dates way back into the past, it was certainly an eye-opener for us!

Stunning Khor Virap Monastery set against the magnificent Mt Arara! Postcard worthy!

Some of these beautiful ancient churches include the impressive Geghard Monastery (Gina’s personal favourite), an ancient cave monastery where the entire church was carved inside a rock mountain, Khor Virap Monastery where St. Gregory the Illuminator was kept imprisoned in a deep pit for 13 years, Tatev Monastery (Daniel’s favourite), the fairytale like setting against the magnificent Mt. Ararat, just to name a few. Click here to view our list of the top 10 most beautiful Armenian churches that you must visit at least once in your lifetime!

2. Indulge in the delicious local cuisine

We had a great opportunity to dine at Cross of Unity in Echimiazin, which was a social enterprise cafe where children get to attend art classes for free and people with disabilities get to work there to earn a living. They also own a restaurant that offers excellent local food such as Morash (shredded chicken mixed with green peas) and Kyufta (handmade sausage beef, grains and sauteed mushrooms). Armenians love to eat bread (Lavash), which is a thin layer of flat chewy bread that’s made from flour, salt and water and baked in an underground Tonir (earth oven). The Lavash can be kept for 1 year without turning bad. So usually the local women will bake the Lavash in bulk and then store them to eat slowly for the next few months. Armenians cannot imagine having their meals without bread! (Even if they’re eating rice, they’ll need to have bread with it too!)

Fun fact: The difference between Armenian way of baking their bread lies in the Tonir that’s situated underground instead of on the ground like how Central Asia or Iran does it.

This lady is one of the most talented carpet weavers around!

Super delicious Kyufta! Just looking at it now it’s making me salivate!

3. Drink the famous Armenian coffee

The difference between Armenian coffee and others lies in its preparation method. For Armenians, they’ll usually crush the coffee beans, add water to it, and then heat it in a special Armenian coffee pot where it’s narrower at the top. Once the coffee mixture start to rise and foam, it’s ready for drinking! Thick Armenian coffee without sugar and a thick layer of residue at the base of the cup, just the way they like it. You have to try it!

Fun fact: Our guide shared with us that some ladies could even tell their future by looking at the stains left behind on the inner side of the cup by the thick coffee mixture!

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4. Explore Yerevan, the ‘pink city’ of Armenia

Once you step into Yerevan, you’ll be in awe of its beautiful architecture where its buildings were made up of volcanic rocks of various shades of pink! That’s how Yerevan got its nickname ‘Pink City” or sometimes also known as the city of stones. Yerevan is a very developed city with modern architecture, cultural centres (Opera House), museums and monuments. Some of these highlights include the Republic Square, Genocide Memorial, Mother Armenia Monument, Vernissage Art Market, just to name a few. Check out our post on exploring the “pink city” Yerevan in Armenia! You definitely have to dedicate at least 1 full day or more to explore the main sights of this beautiful city!

Photo taken at the Republic Square at night

5. Visit the one and only remaining Pagan Temple – Garni Temple

The only remaining Pagan temple left in the whole of Armenia. Back then when Christianity was being introduced to Armenia, all the Pagan temples were destroyed and replaced with Churches, except for this particular Garni Temple which was apparently too beautiful to be destroyed. Hence they decided to make an exception for this temple and instead of destroying it, they built their church right next to it and made sure that it was taller and bigger than the Garni Temple. We were very lucky to be able to witness a ritual going on when we were there as our guide told us that it was very rare! In the photo below, there’s a Pagan priest wearing a cape with a sun like symbol at the back, which symbolises eternity.

6. Delight your taste buds with delicious fruit flavoured wines

Armenia is one of the oldest country that has produced wine in the world. It’s attributed to its blessed location of being on the fertile valleys of Mt Ararat where high quality grapes could be grown. The interesting thing about this wine tasting session at Areni Wine is that not only you get to taste the traditional red wine, but also wines of different interesting fruit flavours such as apricot, pomegranate and more! The apricot wine was particularly sweet, almost tasted like dessert wine. Though we won’t huge fans of wine, we really liked the fruit flavoured wines! You will also get to watch a short video on the production of wine here in Armenia. If you’re a foodie and wine person, you may wish to check out the food & wine tour offered on BeMyGuest!

 

7. Enjoy the majestic view of Lake Sevan and its surrounding

The word “se” means black in Armenian (referring to the black minerals) and “van” means lake. Hence, “Sevan” actually means black lake. This enormous lake covers 5% of the entire Armenia and it’s the most important lake for the Armenians. It’s also the second largest freshwater high-altitude lakes in the world where it’s situated 2,000m above sea level. The lake actually used to be even larger where its depth was at least 20 metres higher! The land that you see on the right hand side of the photo used to be entirely covered with water. Sadly during the USS period, the Russians decided to lower the lake’s surface by around 20m to increase the use of the water for irrigation and hydroelectricity. To save the lake from suffering the same fate as the fast disappearing Aral sea, the Armenian government created a tunnel in 2004 to channel back the water into Lake Sevan and since then, the water level has stabilised at 20m below its original level.

 

8. Be amazed by the beautiful Khachkars at Noratus Cemetery

The Noratus Cemetery is famous for its collection of more than 1,000 beautifully preserved Khachkars (cross stones) where some had very interesting and unique carvings on it. There was a Khachkar that had a celebratory scene of a wedding being carved on it, because they believed that you can overcome death with happiness.

Fun legend: The shards of glass pieces lying on the tomb in the photo below has an interesting legend behind it which dates back to the 19th-century. There was a monk named Ter Karapet Hovhanesi-Hovakimyan who was from a monastery near the village. He was in charged of conducting burial services at Noraduz and to do that, he had to travel for 2 hours to the cemetery from the monastery. To save him the trouble, he built himself a small cell in Noraduz and actually lived in the cemetery all the way till he was 90 years old. When he was 90 years old, he asked his fellow monks to bury him alive. His last words were: “I do not fear death. I would like you to not be afraid also. Never fear anything, but God alone. Let anyone who has fear come to me. Pour water at the burial stone, drink the water, wash your face, chest, arms and legs. Then break the vessel that contained the water. Fear will then abandon you.” To this day, people still come to the monk’s grave to perform this ritual, leaving broken pieces of glass scattered all about the tomb stone. Interesting huh?

 

9. Relax or ski at the beautiful winter wonderland  Tsaghkadzor

You could rent skis or snowboard here at Tsaghkadzor where a ski lift will take you up to different stations. It was quite cheap actually, it only cost around 5,000 drum ($12) per person to rent the ski equipment for the whole day. The ski lift pass was a separate charge. Unfortunately due to time constraint, we did not get to ski here, so we can’t advise much about skiing here. Also, because of the foggy weather, we decided to give the ropeway a miss as we won’t be able to have a nice view at the top.

Essential Information

The above activities were part of a tour with AMTravel that was arranged by BeMyGuest. Our guide, Hayk, was exceptionally good with his vast knowledge of the history of Armenia and its various attraction sights. He was literally like a walking museum! Overall, we highly recommend this tour for anyone who’s interested in visiting Armenia!

AMTravel also owns the Best Western Aghveran Hotel which was not bad if you wish for a resting stop near Lake Sevan before continuing on your journey to the north like us. Breakfast and dinner were both included in the price too! Besides the usual facilities, they also offer bowling, billiard, table tennis and table football!

Hope you enjoyed our post about the top 8 things to do in Armenia! Do drop us a comment if you have any other suggestions on things to do in Armenia.

10 Most Beautiful Churches in Armenia That You Must Visit

10 Most Beautiful Churches in Armenia That You Must Visit

Armenia being one of the oldest countries in the world was also the first country to adopt Christianity as its state religion back in 301 AD (that’s more than 1,700 years ago!). Its millennium old monasteries can usually be found situated on highlands amongst picturesque landscapes where they are less vulnerable to attacks. Armenia, also known as the “land of churches”, has around 4,000 monasteries and churches. Here’s our curated list in random order for the 10 most beautiful churches in Armenia that you must visit at least once in your life!

1. Khor Virap Monastery

It’s no wonder why Khor Virap is one of the favourite attractions of most travellers in Armenia. The majestic Mt Ararat positioned right behind the church makes a fantastic backdrop for a panorama view of the church. The locals also believed that Mt Ararat protected the monastery against a strong earthquake in the past.

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The absolutely stunning Khor Virap against the majestic Mt. Ararat.

It is believed that St Gregory the illuminator was imprisoned here in this dungeon was dug 7-8 metres underground for his preaching of Christianity to the people in Armenia. It was such a miracle that despite being imprisoned for 13 years, he was still alive when they found him. It turned out that throughout the years, there was this Christian lady who continued to give him some bread surreptitiously.

Tip: For those who are claustrophobic, it’s advisable to not enter the pit. It was quite challenging climbing down the vertical ladder into the pit.

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The pit where St. Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned for 13 years

2. Noravank Monastery

This monastery is most famous for its two-storey church whereby you will have to climb up to the main entrance via a narrow staircase made from stones jutting out from the face of building.

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3. Echimiazin Armenian Apostolic Church

This was the first cathedral that was ever built in Armenia and also the oldest cathedral in the world. Sadly the main church building has been under construction for the past few years, hence we were not able to get a nice shot of it. The photo below shows the main entrance to this Church. This place was also the headquarter for all the churches in Armenia.

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And yes, this is the majestic view of the Echmiadzin church in summer when it was not under any renovation. Very beautiful right?

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Photo credits: http://home.comcast.net/~ahahamyan/

4. Zvartnots Ruins

Zvartnots is also known as the “temple of ruins” and it is listed as a UNESCO heritage site. This place was the first circular 3 storey church built back in the 6th century which only lasted for 3 centuries before it was destroyed by an earthquake. Some of the pillars and the altar of the church were relatively well preserved and you could also still see its exterior circular architecture.  The Armenians later learnt to built more stable rectangular based churches instead of circular shaped.

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5. Geghard Monastery

This was one of the most interesting and unique monasteries that we’ve seen during our time in Armenia and also my personal favourite. This entire cave monastery was carved inside a rock mountain, how is that even possible back then with limited tools and technology?! Its name “Geghard” means spear and this spear was actually referring to the same spear that was used to pierce Christ after he was being crucified on the cross to check if he was still alive. Many pilgrims head here to see the relic of the “spear” and hence they eventually renamed the monastery to Geghard Monastery (Spear Monastery).

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Can you imagine, this entire church was carved inside a rock mountain! Look at the details on the pillars and sides of the walls. Also, the exact spot where we were standing in the photo below was said to have the best natural acoustics ever. We did try humming a tune and it immediately sent tingles up our spine! The echo was unbelievable and even the slightest whisper could be heard clearly and beautifully!

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Remember to try singing a tune at this exact spot if you ever get a chance to be here!

6. Sevanakvank monastery

Most people travel to this monastery situated on a hill adjacent to the beautiful Lake Sevan to get a glimpse of the unique green cross stone that was made from limestone. This place was originally built for the priests that have sinned as this monastery was isolated and far away from the city and women. Also, this was one of the only 3 churches in Armenia that has Christ illustrated on the cross stone.

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Can you spot the outstanding green cross stone?

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The maze on the right of the photo used to be the dormitory for the monks

7. Tatev Monastery

Another stunning fairytale like monastery that literally took our breath away. This was in fact Daniel’s favourite out of the lot that we’ve seen! But this monastery is definitely more beautiful during summer.

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During winter, the road that leads up to the spot where you could capture a nice panorama shot of the monastery was too slippery and dangerous. Hence we were unable to capture the monastery from the other angle. Daniel was very disappointed actually 🙁

Useful tip: During winter, the cable car that leads up to the monastery only operates on Sat & Sun.

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Photo credits: http://www.panoramio.com/photo/13420238

This is the breathtaking panorama view that you can get when you travel here during summer. Super amazing right?! Photo not taken by us obviously since we were there during winter 🙁

8. St Grigor Lusavorich

The St Grigor Lusavorich cathedral is also the symbol of the 1700th anniversary of the proclamation of Christianity as a state religion in Armenia as well as a tribute to St Gregory, the illuminator, who was responsible for introducing Christianity to Armenia. This church is one of the newest church in Armenia and was built only around 6-7 years ago.

Useful tip: Visit this church twice! Once in the day and again at night. This church is particularly beautiful at night after being illuminated by the floodlights.

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9. Odzun church

This church was different because of its pink felsite stoned walls. Most of the other churches that we’ve seen were grey/dark coloured, so this was indeed quite refreshing for us! Especially with its picturesque setting of the magnificent ridge as the backdrop, this church quickly became one of our favourites.

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10. Sanahin monastery complex

The Sanahin Monastery was very impressive because of its remarkable archways. The Sanahin was especially rich in Khachkars (cross stones) where more than 80 of them survived till date. If you’re visiting this complex, do remember to pay more attention to the intricate details on the khachkars. Most of these khachkars depict the traditional cross growing out of a grain with branches at its sides. According to our guide, this symbolises “life”.

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Essential Information

To book a similar tour which takes you to all these beautiful churches in Armenia, please visit BeMyGuest for more information. One thing challenging about travelling in Armenia is its limited public transport outside of Yerevan, especially during off peak season. To visit all of the above churches, it would be very challenging to do it on your own unless you rent a car or book a tour. Do also check out their other exciting tours in Armenia!

If you wish to know how we spent the rest of our time in Armenia, do check out our post on things to do in Armenia. Or if you’ll only be travelling to Yerevan, check out our post on exploring the beautiful “pink city” Yerevan in Armenia 🙂

Hope you enjoyed our post about Armenia! Do drop us a comment below on what you think about the churches listed above 🙂

Samarkand – The Heart of the Great Silk Road

Samarkand – The Heart of the Great Silk Road

Samarkand is known as one of the most ancient cities with history dating back to more than 2,500 years ago (almost as old as Rome!). It used to be the capital of Uzbekistan in the 19th century before it lost its status to Tashkent, the current capital of Uzbekistan. Samarkand was blessed with a strategic geographical location which made it a pivotal part of the Great Silk Road. With such a rich history and culture, it’s no wonder that Samarkand is also known as the heart of the great Silk Road.

There’s an interesting and sad legend behind the name, Samarkand, which involves this pair of lovers. A princess, named “Kant” fell in love with a poor boy, named “Samar” but her father refused to give them his blessings due to the boy’s lowly status. To prevent their marriage, Kant’s father killed Samar which caused Kant to be so upset that she took her own life by jumping off the roof of the castle. The people were so overwhelmed with their love story that they decided to name this city after them, Samarkand. Awwww….grab your tissues!

Fun fact: For those of you confused with differentiating between a mosque, medressa and mausoleum, be confused no more! A mosque is a religious place of worship for the Muslims, a medressa is a place for religious studies and a mausoleum houses the body of the deceased.

The Registant

The Registant is also considered to be the most beautiful sight in Central Asia and it’s definitely a must-see if you’re travelling to Uzbekistan. We were enamoured by how grand it was and its intricate mosaic details. It consists of 3 main buildings, the Ulugbek Medressa, Sher Dor (Lion) Medressa and the Tilla-Kari (gold covered) Medressa. The Registant is actually a public square where the people used to gather to hear royal proclamations and also a place for public execution :/ It was quite hard to imagine people being executed right here in this beautiful and tranquil place.

Entrance fee: 17,000Som (USD5) per person

Tip: You can choose to climb up the Minaret (tower) by paying an addition 10,000 som to the staff or police. We didn’t go up the tower though, so we can’t advise with regards to the view from the tower.

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From left to right: Ulugbek Medressa, Tilla-Kari Medressa and Sher Dor Medressa

Sher Dor Medressa

Can you spot the cute “lion” mosaics of the Sher Dor Medressa? (They look more like tigers actually)

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Close up of the grandiose Ulugbek Medressa

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At the court yard of the Ulugbek Medressa

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This cute old man requested for a photo with Gina at the Registant 🙂

Bibi-Khanym Mosque

This mosque was once one of the largest mosques in the world with a height of 41m. It was built by the favourite wife, Bibi-Khanym, of Timur as a surprise for him after his return from India. The condition of the mosque is quite bad today as a result of it being built in a haste and the pushing of the construction techniques to its limits at that time.

Entrance fee: 12,000Som (USD3.50)

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View from the top of Shah-i-Zinda Mausoleum

Tip: For a sublime view of the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, climb to the top of the hill of the Shah-i-Zinda cemetery

Bibi-Khanym Mosque

This part of the Bibi-Khanym Mosque is definitely badly in need of restoration! Look at the workers in the photo on the left below, they were fixing together tiles one at a time to form a block of tiles before putting it up! That’s super tedious and it’s probably going to take a long time to restore the entire place.

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With the friendly “Non” sellers at the bazaar! Sporting the same look as them 🙂

Gur-E-Amir Mausoleum

Another grand masterpiece of Samarkand. We were lucky to be staying in a guesthouse just next to this mausoleum and we could simply take a short walk out at night to capture the night shot below. We didn’t enter it though and only took photos from outside.

Gur-E-Amir MausoleumGur-E-Amir Mausoleum

Shah-i-Zinda

Shah-i-Zinda also means “Tomb of the Living King” and it consists some of the most stunning tombs ever. The richer you are, the more grand your tomb will be. Some of the tombs even had 3d carving of the deceased face! We found great solace in strolling around the cemetery where it was so peaceful and devoid of tourists.

Entrance fee: 8,000Som (USD2.30)

hazrat hizr mosque

View of the Hazrat Hizr Mosque from the Shah-i-Zinda Mausoleum

Essential Information

Where we stayed
Emir B&B
cost: USD30 for a double room with breakfast
Not bad, value for money. Good location, new and clean rooms, hot showers and relatively strong & fast wifi connection available even in the rooms. We were appreciative of the owner shifting the wifi router nearer to our rooms just so that we can use our laptops in the comfort of our own rooms instead of having to camp outside in the living room.

Where we ate
Near the Registant there were a few cafes selling reasonably cheap local food. You could get a plate of plov for 7,000som (US$2). There’s also a big well-stocked supermarket just opposite the Registant.

How we got here
We took a private taxi from the Asraf Village of Nurata. Raxmat, owner of Yashigul Guesthouse, drove us to Samarkand.
Cost: 160,000som (USD46) 

Do you agree that this is one of the most beautiful ancient cities in the world? Share with us your view by commenting below! 🙂 Also, check out our experience in Bukhara, Khiva and travel off road in Uzbekistan!

The Fast Disappearing Aral Sea in Uzbekistan

The Fast Disappearing Aral Sea in Uzbekistan

Save the Aral Sea! See it now while you still can. The Aral Sea was once the 4th largest sea in the world and today, it has been reduced to a pathetic 10% of its original size.

PHOTOGRAPH BY NASA EARTH OBSERVATORY

PHOTOGRAPH BY NASA EARTH OBSERVATORY

We stopped by the ship graveyard where there were around 7 to 8 rusty ancient abandoned ships on the dried up land. It was surreal standing there in the middle of the vast desert land with sparse tundra bushes and abandoned fishing boats, trying to picture how this place used to be a thriving sea full of busy fishermen. It was fun though, playing around on the ships and exploring them inside out.

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The next day, we drove for quite a long time before we could reach the remaining part of the Aral Sea. It was a very scenic drive to the Aral Sea and along the way, we passed by sublime picturesque canyon ridges.

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From a distance away, we could smell a strong whiff of salinity and we knew that we had reached the Aral Sea. There was a thick layer of white crystalline salts before we could actually reach the sea. Because it was winter, we could walk right up to the shoreline and to get to touch the waters. During summer, you’ll have to trudge through knee-deep mud before reaching the waters but in winter, the mud was all frozen and it was easy to walk on it. Unfortunately, it was too cold to swim during this period. Otherwise, it would have been quite an interesting experience!

Fun fact: Apparently the water is so salty that you could float a brick in it! Sadly we forgot to test that out. We initially planned to throw a rock in to see if it could really float. If you’re heading there, please try out this experiment and let us know the results! 😉

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During summer, you can probably soak in these makeshift pools by the sea!

Lunch-time (in the middle of nowhere)! We always enjoy having a picnic style lunch in the midst of nature, just like we did in Mongolia! Only con is that it was very cold and our food got cold too quickly. Otherwise, it was an amazing experience dining in the wild.

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It was so windy that I had to kneel on the mat to keep it still!

After visiting the Aral Sea, we also stopped by an old fishing village where there were still people fishing till date.

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Spotted these random cute dogs lying outside the fishermen’s house

Essential Information

How to get to the Aral Sea

We booked our tour with Tazabay Uteuliev. You can contact him at +998913 77 7729 or +99893 364 8610. He responded to our email very quickly and can speak fluent English. The day before our tour he actually dropped by our hotel to see if everything is okay and to arrange with us the pick up time for the next day.

This tour was no doubt interesting albeit being very costly. The high cost is mainly due to the heavy fuel usage as we had to drive for a very long distance before being able to reach the Aral Sea. Also you will need a 4WD because of the uneven tundra terrain and public transport is not available. The only way is to book a tour with an agency. However to cut cost, we only hired a driver and chose to go without a guide; our driver couldn’t speak any English at all. It was quite a pity as he did try to share with us some information about the Aral Sea in Russian but we couldn’t understand him. Otherwise it would have been an even more wholesome and enriching experience.

For updated pricing and further information, please contact Tazabay directly.

Have you visited the Aral Sea before? Share with us your experience by commenting below! 🙂 For other things to do in Uzbekistan, check out our post on visiting Samarkand, Khiva, Bukhara or travel off road in Uzbekistan.

How To Apply Visas For Central Asia, Iran & Armenia

How To Apply Visas For Central Asia, Iran & Armenia

Our experience on applying for visas to Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Iran and Armenia using a Singapore passport. Includes useful tips, the location of the embassy, documents needed, how long it took and the difficulty level of applying for the visa.

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Kazakhstan Tourist Visa

Difficulty Level ★★
Only troublesome thing is that you have to take a bus or taxi out to the bank to make payment, about 30 minutes journey.

Type of Visa
Tourist visa

Where we applied
Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Mira (Tynchtyk) 95A
0312-69 20 95

Opening Hours
9am to 12pm, Mon- Fri (closed on Wed)

Documents needed
1 application form
1 passport photo

Cost
30USD
Payment to be made at the bank (can either take a taxi or a bus from the main road at the cross junction)
Additional 20som for bank administration fee

Time needed
2 working days (collect at 6pm only)

Additional information
Despite reaching promptly at 6pm to collect our visas, and there weren’t many other people, we had to wait an hour before we can get our passports back. No idea why it took so long when the other people could just enter the embassy and get their passport on the spot.

Tajikistan Visa

Difficulty Level
By far the easiest visa to get for Central Asia, minimal documents needed, short working time and payment can be made directly at the embassy 

Type of Visa
Tourist visa

Where we applied
Almaty, Kazakhstan
Sanatornaya 16, Mikrorayon Baganashyl
727-269-7059

Opening Hours
9am to 12pm, Mon to Fri

Documents needed
1 application form
1 passport photo

Cost
55USD
Pay directly at the embassy

Time needed
2 working days (collect visa at 9am)

Additional information
GBAO permit included for free, but you have to ask for it.

Uzbekistan Visa

Update: From 10th February 2018, Uzbekistan introduced visa free travel for the citizens of 7 countries and eased visa applications for 39 countries (lifted LOI requirement). The citizens of Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, Turkey, South Korea, Japan and Israel can enter the country without visa for the period of 30 days.

Difficulty Level ★★★★
Only difficult thing is that you have to apply for your LOI and wait for at least 2 weeks before getting it. Once you have your LOI, it’s very easy to get the visa.

Type of Visa
Tourist visa

Where we applied
Almaty, Kazakhstan
Baribaev 36
727-291-02 35

Opening Hours
2pm to 6pm, Mon to Fri (closed on Wed)

Documents needed
1 application form
1 passport photo
1 photocopy of passport data page
1 print out of the LOI

Cost
89 USD (Visa)
80 USD (LOI)
Payment at the bank (short 10 mins walk away from the embassy)

Time needed
Collected visa on the same day
Reached the embassy around 5pm on a Thursday (embassy closes at 6m) and it was super packed with locals. But somehow we got to skip the queue and went right up to the front to submit our documents. Proceeded to make payment at the bank and returned to the embassy at 5.30pm to collect our visas which were ready already. Very efficient process despite the crowd at the embassy!

Additional information
We got our LOI from Stantours, reliable and reputable agency, fast email replies, got our LOI in 13 days. Cost 80USD for the LOI, additional 15USD for processing fee by our bank.

Turkmenistan Visa

Difficulty Level ★★
Contrary to our guidebook and online resources, it was actually quite easy for us to get the transit visa for Turkmenistan. Tour agencies will tell you that it’s very difficult to get the transit visa and that most will get rejected. Met 2 other Japanese tourists who also applied for the transit visa same time as us and all of us got it successfully.

Type of Visa
Transit visa

Where we applied
Tashkent, Uzbekistan
Afrosiab 19 (10 mins walk from the metro station “Kosmo”)
256 94 01

Opening Hours
10am to 12pm, Mon to Thurs

Documents needed
1 application form (the form available online was outdated, had to fill up a new form at the embassy)
1 passport photo
1 coloured photocopy of your passport data page, Uzbekistan visa & onward visa

Cost
55USD (urgent, 1 week processing time) or 35USD (normal, 2 weeks processing time)
Pay directly at the embassy

Time needed
7 working days (collect visa at 10am)
You can take your passport with you after submitting your documents for the visa application. For us, we went ahead to travel to Bukhara and Samarkand during the 1 week and came back to collect our visa after that.

Application of visa – arrived at 9am on Monday, wrote our names down on a piece of paper at the table. At 10am when the embassy opened, we were called in and everything was very fast. Got out by 10.15am. Staff was very friendly and helpful too.

Collection of visa – we arrived at the embassy at 9.45am on the following Wednesday and gave our names to the guy behind the gate. Long queue (we were 16 on the list) and managed to enter only at 11.15am. Once inside, we only had to pass our passport to the embassy staff and then return again on the same day at 4pm to collect our passport.

Additional information
You will need to have your itinerary prepared and they will also ask you for your entry and exit point. Once confirmed, you cannot change your entry and exit points. Professional coloured scanning shop available near the embassy. From the main road facing the embassy, turn right and walk straight till you reach the end of the embassy, there’s a photocopy shop around the corner

Iran Tourist Visa

Difficulty Level ★★★★
Relatively difficult as there’s an additional step of having to apply for the authorization number from the local tour agency in Iran. But once you have the authorization number, it’s easy. Troublesome because you also have to print out your insurance policy. Some other travellers that we met complaint that they had to wait a very long time for the visa! (One Japanese traveller waited 40 days for his visa!)

Type of Visa
Tourist visa

Where we applied
Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
Razzakov 36
0312-62 12 81 (after dialing press 2 then 0)

Opening Hours
9.30am to 12pm, Mon to Fri

Documents needed
1 application form (the form available online was outdated, we had to fill up a new form at the embassy)
1 passport photo (for ladies, better to wear a head scarf in the photo)
1 photocopy of passport data page
1 copy of insurance policy (print out of email confirmation will suffice)
Authorisation number (we got ours from Uppersia for US$35 in 10 working days, )

Cost
64USD for Visa (for Singaporean Citizens)
Payment to be made at the Bank of Pakistan, short 10 mins walk from the embassay.
35USD for Authorisation Number (payment to be made in cash when we arrive at Tehran)

Time needed
3 working days (collect visa at 4pm)

Additional information
If you need to print out your insurance policy, there’s a Fujifilm shop opposite the Bank of Pakistan which allows you to print. If you only need to photocopy your passport, you can do it at the bank.

Armenia Visa

Difficulty Level
By far the cheapest and easiest visa so far. We got our visa directly from the border of Armenia and Iran.

Type of Visa
Tourist visa

Where we applied
Iran-Armenia border (Norduz border in Iran)

Opening Hours
Everyday, available as long as the border’s opened.

Documents needed
1 application form (available at the border)

Cost
10USD (or 3,000drum per person)
Pay cash directly at the border (note that they do not have small change for US dollars)

Time needed
Immediate

Hope you found our post useful! If your experience was different from ours or if there are any changes to the visa requirements, do drop us a comment below and we will update our post to make it more relevant to other travellers. Thank you!

Do also check out our guide on travelling to Central Asia!

Look up in Iran – Fascinating Ceiling Designs That You Don’t Want To Miss [Photos]

Look up in Iran – Fascinating Ceiling Designs That You Don’t Want To Miss [Photos]

We have always been in awe of the fascinating ceilings of the mosques and buildings in Iran. During our Footprints Across Asia journey, we were fortunate to be able to witness the magnificent architectural wonders of this beautiful country. Next time when you visit Iran, do remember to look up! 🙂

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Khan-e Boroujerdi in Kashan

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Khan-e Boroujerdi in Kashan

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Khan-e Boroujerdi in Kashan

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Khan-e Abbasian in Kashan

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Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah in Isfahan

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Masjed-e Shah in Isfahan

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Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah in Isfahan

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Masjed-e Shah in Isfahan

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Masjed-e Jameh in Isfahan

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Masjed-e Jameh in Isfahan

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Masjed-e Jameh in Isfahan

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Masjed-e Jameh in Isfahan

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Khan-e Boroujerdi in Kashan

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Hammam-e Sultan Mir Ahmad in Kashan

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The Bazaar of Kashan

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The Bazaar of Kashan

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The Bazaar of Kashan

Have you been to any of these places? Which do you think is the nicest of them all? Share with us your thoughts by commenting below!

Travelling Off-Road in Uzbekistan: Asraf Village in Nurata

Travelling Off-Road in Uzbekistan: Asraf Village in Nurata

If you’re tired of city life in Uzbekistan, we recommend that you stop by Asraf Village in Nurata when travelling from Tashkent/Samarkand to Bukhara or vice versa. It’s definitely worth a stop if you’re not in a rush for time. 2 days 1 night would be good enough!

Interesting to note: Asraf Village is not included in the Lonely Planet Central Asia guidebook (2014 edition)!

At Nuratau itself, there’s not that much to do besides visiting the fortress of Alexander the Great and the Chashma Spring in the mosque behind the fortress. You probably just need maybe 1 hour to explore Nuratau and then you can proceed to head off to Asraf Village which will take around 2 to 3 hours depending on the weather and road conditions.

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At the quiet and serene town of Nurata, view from the top of the fortress of Alexandra the Great

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The famous trout of Chasma Spring

You might not be able to see clearly from the photo above, but there are actually tons of trout swimming around in the pool! The fish is not for eating though, the locals believe that the trout is “dirty” as it eats everything in the pool including algae, leftover food, waste, etc. There’s a legend that if you eat the trout from the Chasma Spring, you’ll end up getting white spots and eventually die! It’s interesting though, try mentioning “Nurata” to any local and the first thing that they will bring up is the trout in the holy Chasma Spring.

Tip: If a driver invites you into his home for tea in Nuratau, don’t expect it to be free! We took ours for granted and was shocked when at the end of it, he demanded 30,000som (USD$10) from us for the “hospitality fee”.

Here are 4 awesome things that you can do at Asraf Village

1. Learn to cook the national dish of Uzbekistan

We got to help out with the preparation of Dimlama which is basically meat, onions, potato, carrots and cabbage braised slowly together for about an hour.  It seemed fairly simple to cook this dish though, all you need are the above mentioned ingredients, tomato paste, salt and some special spice that you can only purchase from Central Asia. You can choose from different dishes such as Plov (rice with meat), Laghman (homemade noodles in soup and meat) and more!

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Cutting the potatoes and onions

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Patiently watching and learning to cook

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Cooking using a traditional fire stove!

2. Explore the ancient petroglyphs

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We did a short trek (about 2.5 hours in total, 10km) to check out the petroglyphs (ancient engravings on rocks). Unfortunately we weren’t blessed with good weather and it was mostly foggy and rainy 🙁 That’s one shortfall of travelling during winter, the weather can be quite unfavourable at times. The view is supposed to be spectacular during summer with the Nurata Mountains in the background.

3. Trek the Nurata Mountains

Our guide, Raxmat, is experienced and will be able to lead you for a trek to the Nurata Mountains. They can organise for you to stay in tents/yurts at the Nurata Mountains or if it’s too cold, you can always have the option of staying at the Yashigul Guesthouse instead. Sadly due to bad weather, we were unable to make it for the trek during this trip 🙁 Maybe next time we’ll come back again during summer!

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Photo credits: Raxmat

4. Homestay at Yashigul Guesthouse

At the point of writing, there’s only 1 licensed guesthouse – Yashigul Guesthouse in Asraf Village. This guesthouse is quite big and has summer rooms for guests. But because it was winter, we got to stay with the family in a room set aside for us. It was so warm inside as the oven was shared between both rooms. The host’s mother cooks the national dishes very well and we really enjoyed our meals! Very comfortable and it’s even equipped with proper western toilets and hot showers (only if it’s hot during the day as it’s solar powered). Rare find in villages! When it’s not so cold, you can chill outside in the beautiful garden under the shady lush trees.

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Yummy traditional dinner cooked by the host’s mother! Also, our room for the night!

03 Yahshigul's GH, guests on tapshan

Photo credits: Raxmat

Tip: For really delicious, famous and cheap somsa, ask your driver to stop by Kipchoq which is between Asraf Village & Samarkand for your lunch/tea break. All locals should know about this place as it’s really popular among them and the restaurant consists of 3 floors! And they only sell 1 food item which is their famous somsa! A must try if you’re in that area!

Essential Information

Tour Company: Responsible Travel
We did a 2D1N tour at Asraf Village with Responsible Travel and we were overall very satisfied with the hospitality and great service of Raxmat (our guide) and his family! Raxmat was very professional and helpful and he even drove us to Samarkand the next day! Only downside was the bad weather when we were there 🙁 Otherwise, it would be perfect to visit this quaint little village in summer, spring or autumn! 🙂

Contact Information: Sherzod, +998 90 2650680, travelresponsible@gmail.com
For details on the cost of the tour at Asraf Village, please contact Sherzod.

How to get to Asraf Village: Contact Ruslan at  +998 93 661 1013. He can pick you up from Nurata and send you to Asraf. Recommended to use Ruslan as your driver as there are many villages in Nurata and not many taxi drivers know the exact location of the Yashigul Guesthouse. After a long stretch of drive (around 2 hours), you’ll see an obscure looking signboard that points to Yashigul Guesthouse. If your driver is not familiar with the road, it’s very easy to miss this signboard especially at night!

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Photo credits: Raxmat

Check out our post on visiting Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva!

Bukhara – The Holiest City of Central Asia

Bukhara – The Holiest City of Central Asia

Bukhara was one of the most anticipated cities that we look forward to visiting in Central Asia. With a history of more than 2,000 years and its prominent location on the Silk Road, we were very excited to experience this trading hub of strong economic and cultural influence in Central Asia. One major highlight of this city would be its exotic architectural splendour albeit it being very touristy and commercialised with countless of souvenir shops and peddlers lined up along the streets.

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Somehow this place felt very surreal, it almost felt like we were in a theme park! With the ancient mud walls, jagged stone tiles and colourful mosaic tiled mosques, we were blown away by the beauty and charm of this picturesque city. Strangely there was almost no police patrolling the streets at all in Bukhara and it felt weird that for once, we were not stopped by any police to get our passport checked!

Bolo-Hauz mosque

Bolo Hauz Mosque also means “Mosque of the Bolo Lake”, which refers to the octagonal pool in front of it. This mosque is also known as the “Forty Pillars Mosque” because of the 20 tall magnificent columns at the front of the mosque and its reflection in the pool adjacent to it. It was built in 1712  as a royal chapel but has since became an important site due to its close proximity to the Registan Square.

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Po-i-Kalan complex

Po-i-Kalan (which also means “The Foot Of The Great”) complex consists of 3 parts, Kalyan Minaret, Kalyan Mosque and the Mir-i Arab Madrassah. Interestingly, the Kalyan Minaret was also known as the “Tower Of Death” as criminals were executed by being thrown off the tower (from 45.6m!) during the early centuries.

Fees: 6,000som (no longer 2,000som as stated in the Lonely Planet guide 2014)

Po-i-KalanPo-i-KalanPo-i-KalanKalan Mosque

Chor-Minor

Actually we decided to check this place out because it was a starred location on Lonely Planet guidebook. This mosque in our opinion was a little disappointing as it wasn’t as grand or interesting as the others. Also, it was nestled in the midst of a neighbourhood with shops and houses next to it which sort of reduced its charm factor. But what was cool was that while we were resting on the bench opposite Chor-Minor, we were looking at the cover of our Lonely Planet guidebook and was wondering where the photo was taken at as we still have not found it yet despite being to most of Central Asia, when we realised that the photo was actually taken at Chor-Minor! It seemed larger on the book though.

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The Ark (Fortress of Bukhara) & the Museum of Law & Legislation

This is one of Bukhara’s oldest structure and after being bombed by the red Army in 1920, it’s left with 80% ruins inside. Unfortunately we didn’t get to see much of it inside as only a small section of the fortress was open to tourists. We also didn’t get to go to the museum as it was closed on the day (random Wednesday) that we went. We did check out the Museum of Law & Legislation at the back of the Ark though. Quite interesting, there’s a torture chamber inside it complete with shackles used on prisoners and also a bug pit (a 6m deep hole dug into the ground) where the worst kind of criminals were kept inside. It’s a very small museum though and you’ll be out in probably 15 minutes or less. There are some very cool old photos near the Kassa (cashier) depicting the ancient ruined state of Bukhara.

Fees:
The Ark – 6,000som (1 day option). There’s a 3 day option which costs 11,500som. We don’t think that’s necessary though, 1 day is more than enough to see the entire ark since most of it is unaccessible anyway.

Museum of Law & Legislation – 3,000som

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Samani Mausoleum

This mausoleum is interesting because for the past 1,000 over years, it has never ever needed any significant repair! It’s one of the oldest and best preserved monuments of Bukhara with 2m thick walls that explained its sturdiness. The intricate terracotta brickwork of the mausoleum also makes it stand out from the other monuments in town. Apparently its design changes according to the shadows casted by the sun at different times of the day. We didn’t stay long enough to witness that though.

Samani Mausoleum

Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum

We like how this mosque stands out because of its pointed roof compared to the usual rounded roofs of the other mosques. It’s currently a Museum of Water Supply where it houses some old photographs of the way people carried water in the past and display of some traditional water carriers (inflatable leather bags). Interesting but again, it’s a very small museum and you can probably finish seeing everything in 10 minutes.

Fees: 1,000som

Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum

One thing that we really admire about Uzbekistan is their talented local artists. They have tons of stalls selling handmade artwork by the local artists and it was intriguing to watch them in action. We would have bought some of these beautiful souvenirs back if we weren’t travelling for such a long time as it would be cumbersome to carry them around. So, we could only gaze covetously at the intricate art pieces.

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Talented local artist in action

Places that you can give a miss

Another place of interest that was starred by Lonely Planet was the Museum of Carpets which we did not take any photos of as it wasn’t that interesting or fascinating. Entrance fees wasn’t expensive though, cost us 3,000som per person. But the museum was really small with not much information about the carpets. The range of carpets was also quite limited and overall we weren’t very impressed by this attraction. We feel that it’s okay to give it a miss if you’re in a rush.   

Oh and if you happen to come across this Zoo (forgot its name) near the back of the The Ark, we think that you can give it a miss. We were curious and decided to enter as we thought it was free and also didn’t know what this place was about. Once we entered, we regretted it immediately as the animals looked so pitiful and pathetic in their dirty and uninhabitable enclosures! We felt so sorry for these animals. The best part of all was when we exited, the “friendly” staff suddenly demanded 5,000som from each of us and repeated the word “business”, which we guess that he was trying to explain that he was running a business here and that they needed income for the workers and animals. Definitely not worth going!

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Eagles are meant to soar high in the sky, not locked up in cages!

Overall, Bukhara is still one of our favourite cities in Uzbekistan as the feel of it is just so different from the other cities. This is definitely a place that you must visit if you’re every travelling to Central Asia!

Essential Information

Where we stayed
Hotel Rustam & Zuxro
Clean and new rooms with double beds and a nice dining area where breakfast was served. Good wifi connection at the dining area and limited connection in the rooms. Good location, right next to Lyabi-Hauz.
Cost: USD24 for a double room with free breakfast (we managed to bargain with the owner as it was off peak)

How to get here
We took a Sharq train from Tashkent to Bukhara (around 7 hours). Train departs daily from Tashkent at 8.30am.
Cost: 46,000Som (USD13)

Tip: For cheap and delicious food, avoid the cafes at Lyabi-Hauz. Head out and explore behind the ark where you’ll see a local bus interchange with many small local cafes. We ate at one of those local cafes and had the best fried laghman ever (similar to tomato pasta with egg)!

Have you been to Bukhara before? Drop us a comment below if you agree with us that it’s the most beautiful city of Uzbekistan! 🙂 Do also check out our post on Samarkand, Khiva and travelling off road in Uzbekistan.

Part 2: Journey along the Wakhan Valley In Tajikistan (Langar-Ishkashim-Khorog)

Part 2: Journey along the Wakhan Valley In Tajikistan (Langar-Ishkashim-Khorog)

Here’s part 2 of our amazing journey along the Wakhan Valley in Tajikistan where we explored impressive ancient castle ruins, fortress and soaked in natural hot springs. In case you missed part 1 where we cruised along the Pamir highway and experienced the coldest place (-38°C) in Tajikistan and explored ancient rock engravings left behind by people in the early centuries.

Langar to Ishkashim – Yamchun Fort

Yamchun Fort is one of Wakhan Valley’s most impressive castle ruins where part of its walls and round watchtowers still exist. As we walked through the rumbles, it almost felt like we were transported back into time! It was fun imagining what went on here in the castle back in the 12th century. We were happily choosing our “rooms” and guessing which was the kitchen, the torture chamber, the grand hall, etc.

Yamchun Fort

ancient castle ruins

Can you spot the watchtower with a small black bird perched at the top of it?

ancient castle ruins

Being transported back to the 12th century…

Langar to Ishkashim – Bibi Fatima Springs

We were really looking forward to this hot spring as we’ve not had a hot shower for almost 3 days already! There’s a separate hot spring for both men and women. According to Daniel, his hot spring was sort of outdoor and there was even a “cave” where he could crawl in and stand fully with the water level reaching up to his shoulders! This natural hot spring was named after the Prophet Mohammed’s daughter and apparently the local women believe that by visiting the womblike calcite formations, it’ll help boost their fertility! Unfortunately for the female’s hot spring, the water level was pathetically low! It only measured up to our ankles! How to soak like that 🙁 My guide said that it’s not like that during summer and it’s probably because it’s low peak now and they’re using this period to clean the pool. But at least there was a nice strong gush of hot water from a pipe near the top of the room which left me more than satisfied 🙂

Tip: Leave your valuables in the car. There are no locker facilities at the hot spring and a lot of locals frequent this place and it might not be safe to just leave your valuables unattended on the bench outside the hot spring.

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Daniel happily soaking inside the “cave”

Langar to Ishkashim – Khaakha Fortress

This fortress was built way back in the 3rd century BC and has since been reused by many civilisations. Not too bad, still worth a stop, but not as impressive as the grandiose Yamchun Fort which was much larger in scale and had more remains left.

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Ishkashim to Khorog – Garam Chashma Hot Spring

This was the second natural hot spring that we went during this tour and both hot springs left us with a different experience. For Garam Chashma, the hot spring for the guys was in the open while for women, it was inside a room. This time round for the girls, the hot spring’s water level was much higher and we could enjoy it properly while sitting down on the steps inside the pool (unlike the Bibi Fatima hot spring where the water only reached up to our ankles!).

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The exterior of Garam Chashma that looks like a giant icing cake!

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hot spring

Daniel happily soaking in the outdoor pool

Overall we had a really enjoyable time travelling the Pamir Highway and Wakhan Valley and it’s definitely recommended if you’re planning to travel to Tajikistan too! Apart from the attractions, the drive itself was also picturesque and Daniel requested to stop the car almost every 30 minutes to take a snapshot of the stunning scenery. That’s one benefit of having your own private taxi, you have the liberty to stop anytime you wish to have a photo taken.

Essential Information

Tour Company: Pamir Offroad Adventure Tours

We highly recommend Pamir Off Road Adventures as they were very professional and responded promptly to our emails. They provided us with a skilled driver, Musa, and guide (his wife), Nadezhda who spoke fluent english, and a solid 4X4 jeep! Trust me, the jeep’s one of the most important factor to consider when travelling the Pamir Highway! The price that we paid was actually for the driver only, and it was a bonus to have a knowledgeable english speaking guide to join us for this tour 🙂 Throughout the 5 days, they were very attentive to our needs and ensured that we were always kept warm and comfortable at night in the different guesthouses. We were exceptionally pleased when on the very last day, both Musa and Nadezhda sent us to the market at Khoroq to negotiate a very cheap price for a taxi to send us to Dushanbe. This was an extra value added service which we really appreciated. Overall we were very satisfied with their excellent service!

Contact Information: Januzak (Director), 900577888, janpamtour@gmail.com

Please contact Januzak for more information on the cost of the tour!